Onion pie

As Maria and Nikos Psilakis note in their book about traditional Cretan cuisine, the “breadmeats” were quite popular in Ancient Greece, according to 19th century scholar Theodosios Venizelos. They later acquired the name “bourekia” from the Turks, who forced Greeks to use the Turkish names on culinary delights. The pies or bourekia have survived until today, however, remaining one of the centerpieces of the Greek home dinner table, as well as a viable choice at the massively competitive market of fast-food snacks. It is probably the magical nature of the past, the soft texture of the dough, malleable and white under the fingers – a memory of a mother’s breast – , and then the crispy transformation after its contact with oil and fire. The rough explosion that sends hundreds of crunchy pieces into the mouth. The hidden surprise of the filling can be modified to fit any individual taste.

Pies contain anything Greece produces, any kind of weird or exotic local delicacies from all corners of the country. Something like a Greek version of pizza, our pies are the food of the poor, since you can produce a nutritious meal from a piece of dough and a handful of herbs. At the same time, it’s the pride of the well-to-do urban housewife. It’s a part of tradition, as the main offering for visitors, as well as the main meal that accompanies Christian holidays. The making of the pie is an artform in itself, inseparably connected with Greek customs and traditions. For old-time housewives, the spreading of the pastry sheet was a token of their values as cooks. Each one tried to create a sheet that was crisp, thin and transparent, almost like glass. The best in the village brought her cooking from house to house, getting paid handsomely for her art.

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